Uliassi has a magnetic effect with a siren song that has attracted travelling gourmets since 1990. The call to the Abysses in the Briny Deep is unleashed by Chef Mauro’s welcome: “a shell enclosing sea anemones, urchins, plankton and oysters in a clam broth that talks of the eternal roar of the waves”. For this champion of the ultimate in fresh marine treasures, the profundity of simple things is highly important. The restaurant reminds us of the hold of a ship, complete with a parapet for outdoor tables, bag holders made with fish crates, a galley instead of a kitchen and My Lady of the ship: Catia Uliassi. The restaurant’s been here for twenty-eight years but “it is always like a theatre’s first night with a thrill in the air”, an innate elegance that enhances a cuisine that never fails to surprise. The paintings on the walls by the patroness hide utterances in the sands that her brother instils in the menus. One’s hope is that the backwash always returns to serve the briny dishes we have just finished in a continuum of pleasure.