Loreto: the old red-brick house bearing the branded emblem and traditions of the Marches has a 58 -year-long history which started with grandmother Andreina, now 93. She has only just given up tending the generous spit but still sometimes sneaks into the kitchen to share a happy moment with her grandson, Errico Recanati. Cooking on the spit is a long-established family tradition and is still their centrepiece for creative cooking with dishes like Oysters over the open fire. A history steeped in family and love, like that between Errico and Ramona Ragaini, who has brought delicacy and courtesy to the service she provides, despite a career in quite a different field. But you have to create your own destiny and chef Errico Recanati succeeded in taking over the business and providing the dishes with his own particular style. The classic, tempting and delicious Vincisgrasso is lightened and redesigned in contemporary style without abandoning its essential flavour. On summer days it’s lovely to while away the hours among tasty dishes in this garden belonging to a culinary dynasty that has already seen three generations.