A sudden flash of light appeared when chef Giancarlo Morelli saw an old apple orchard near a beautiful nineteenth-century courtyard in the heart of Brianza: he immediately imagined it was where he would found his Pomiroeu. The chef himself is eclectic and energetic but his cuisine is balanced, entertaining (but with no flights of fancy) and also reassuring even in its international dabbles borrowed from Peruvian cooking, one of his favourites. His memorable dishes include chestnut flour Tortelli stuffed with pumpkin, candied orange and chicken stock; creamed rice with Catalonian pesto, goat’s cheese fondue and spicy raisins, or the tempting Rack of Lamb, creamed carrots, liquorice and black cabbage. The cool surroundings of the wine cellar produce a number of lively, innovative aperitifs that provide a counterpoint to the restaurant: Aperisotto, Italian and French cheese tastings, the table in the wine cellar and GianTonic. Here the joy of sharing food together comes alive with a light and easygoing verve.